Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Empire of the Sun (7b) - Anstey's Cove

George managed to get some good footage of me here:

Empire of the Sun - Ansteys Cove from george l on Vimeo.

Went to quite a bit of trouble to finally succeed on this. Should have nailed it on the first visit but this fall before the last clip meant it was time to go down and do some DWS. Fast forward a week and I was down there again under this very nice sheet of overhanging limestone (esp. after a 6hr drive from London). The usual 6c warmup felt a bit of a struggle, and the bolt to bolt go was pretty tough so I wasn't exactly feeling confident. In any case I pulled on and everything seemed to flow. I re-arranged my sequence slightly at the cross at the "hole" to bring my right under my other hand which seemed to make the long throw left a lot easier....a few minute later i was at the top clipping the chains.

Had a play on the 7c+ top the right, not only did it feel nails but it is also a bit escapable near the top. Not sure it is worth 3 stars but still keen to give it a proper try.

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